Improvement in machines for sewing sweat-linings into hats



T. W. BRAGHER. Machine for Sewing Sweat-Linings into Hats.

No. 221,508. Patented Nov. 11,1879.

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N. PETERS. PHOTO-LITHOGRAPHER. WASHINGTON. D c.

UNITED STATES PATENT FFICE.

THOMAS w. BRAGHER, on NEW YonK, N. Y.

IMPROVEMENT lN MACHINES FOR SEWING SWEAT-LININGS INTO HATS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 221,508, dated November11, 1879; application filed July 25, 1879.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, THOMAS W. BRA CHER,

of the city, county, and State of New York, have invented new and usefulImprovements in Machines for Sewing Sweat-Linin gs into Hats, whichimprovements are fully set forth in the following specification,reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1represents a side view of a machine embodying myimprovements. Fig.2 is ahorizontal section of the same in the plane 0000, Fig. 1; and Fig. 3 isa front view of a portion thereof.

Similar letters indicate corresponding parts.

This invention consists in the combination, with an organizedstitch-forming. mechanism, ofa curved plate for supportinga hat, upperand lower longitudinal gage-plates, G D, arranged parallel with eachother, the former gage having a transverse groove, d, to guide thereedcovering and reed, and the latter gage having a lip, f, for guidingthe .inner edge of the sweat-band, and a suitable hat-guide, whereby thehat is properly supported and guided, the reed-covering and sweat-bandare sewed together, and the sweat-band is secured to the hat, as morefully hereinafter set forth also, in the combination, with an organizedstitchforming mechanism, of a curved plate adapted to support the crownof a hat near its headopening, a suitable gage for guiding the'reed in asweat-band and retaining the samein the proper relation to the hat whilethe sewing progresses, and a brim-guide, so that the reed and the hatare properly guided and the reed assumes its proper position near theedge of the head-opening without fail further, in the combination, withan organized SlZltCll-fOIllllll g mechanism, of a curved plate adaptedto support the crown of a hat near its head-opening, a gage adapted toconduct a sweat-band to the sewing mechanism, and two rollers, one ofwhich is adjustably mounted on the gage, while the other is secured to arock-shaft and subjected to the action of a spring, so that when the hatis placed upon the curved plate its brim is compressed and guidedbetween the two rollers, and by turning the rock-shaft against theaction of its spring the brim of the hat is released 5 also, in thecombination of the rock-shaft and the outer guide-roller carried by thesame with the presser-slide and mechanism connecting the same with therock-shaft, so that by raising the presser-foot the outer guide-rolleris caused to swing out, and by dropping the presser-foot said outerguideroller is caused to swing in toward the inner guide-roller, as willbe more particularly hereinafter described 5 further, in thecombination, with a stitch-forming mechanism and a curved work-plate, ofthe upper and lower longitudinal gage-plates, the former having a groovefor guiding the reed of a sweat-band, and the latter a lip for guidingthe inner edge of a sweat-band, and a spring-impelled roller arranged onthe under side of the lower gageplate and adapted to bear against theouter edge of the sweat-band to maintain the inner edge thereof againstthe lip of the lower gage, substantially as more fully hereinafterdescribed.

In the drawings, the letter A designates a stitch-forming mechanism orsewing-machine of any suitable construction, and Bis a curved plateadapted to support the crown of a hat. In this plate is an opening orthroat, a, through which passes the needle 02 during the operation ofsewing, and another opening, b, through which extends the feed-dog. Onthe frame of the sewing-machine is secured a gage, O, which can beadjusted toward and from the needle,

and which is provided with a groove, d, adapted to catch over the reedof a sweat band, as shown in Fig. 1.1 The gage O is elastic, so that itpresses the reed, together with its covering, down upon the plate B, andit is so adjusted that the reed-coverin g extends over the needle-throata, while the reed lies close on the inside of said throat. When the reedand its covering are already con nected to the sweatband, the body ofthe sweat-band extends beneath the gage O but if it is desired to sewthe reed-covering and the sweat-band together at the same operationwhereby these parts are sewed to the hat, the sweat-band is placed in agage, D, situated beneath the gage O, and provided with a lip, f,against which the front edge of the sweat-bandis pressed by the actionof a spring-roller, g, which acts on the inner or rear edge of thesweat-band, and

which is adapted to adjust itself to the varying width of thesweat-band. (See Fig. 1.)

The crown of the hat to which the sweatband is to be sewed is passedover the curved supporting-plate B, so that the edge of the head-openinglies close to the groove d of the gage O, and over the 'reed-covering hand the outer edge of the sweat-band i, Fig. 1, and it is retained inthis position by the presser-foot F, so that if the sewing mechanism isset in operation a row of stitches are formed through the crown of thehat, through the reed-coverin g, and through the sweat-band, nearitsouter edge, and which unite the reed-covering and the sweat-bandsimultaneously with each other and with the hat. The recd-coverin g may,however, be sewed to the sweat-band by a separate operation, and thenboth together placed beneath the gage (.3 and sewed to the hat, asalready explained.

By the action of the grooved in the gageC the reed is guided andretained in the proper relation toward the edge of the head-opening inthe hat, which is of the greatest importance in order to produce a neatjob.

On the upper surface of the gage C is formed a shoulder, j, which formsa guide for the edge of the head-opening in the hat; but, in order toguide the hat still better, I have provided a brim-guide, which consistsof two rollers, k l, the inner roller, 7:, being mounted on a pinsecured to a slide, m, which is adjusted on the gage O by means of aset-screw, 0, so that said roller can be set in line with or directlyover the shoulderj of the gage U. The outer roller, 1, is mounted on anarm, p, extending from a rock-shaft, q, which has its bearings in abracket, 1, that is firmly secured to the front of the frame of thesewing-machine. From this rock-shaft extends an arm, 3, to which ishitched a spring, 1, that has a tendency to throw the roller 1 inagainst the roller k, and to compress the brim of the hat between thetwo rollers, so that a secure guide for the hat is obtained, and whenthe sweatband has been sewed to the hat the reed occupies its properposition on the edge of the head-opening of the hat.

The arm .9 connects by a suitable link, 24, with the presscr-slide 11,so that by raising the presser-slide the rollerI is caused to swingoutward away from the roller Ir, and by lowering the presserslide theroller 1 is permitted to follow the action of the spring t, and to swingin toward the roller k.

By these means the operation of introducing a hat into thesewing-machine and of removing the same from the sewing-machine ismaterially facilitated.

I am aware that various sewing-machines have been constructed for sewingsweat-bands into hats, and I do not, therefore, claim such as myinvention.

What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. The combination, with an organized stitch-forming mechanism, of acurved plate for supporting a hat, upper and lower longitudinalgage-plates, (J D, arranged parallel with each other, the former gagehaving a transverse groove, 01, to guide the reed-covering and reed, andthe latter gage having a lip, f, for guiding the inner edge of thesweatband, and a suitable hat-guide, substantially as described, wherebythe hat is properly supported and guided, the reed-covering andsweat-baud are sewed together, and the sweatband is sewed to the hat, asset forth.

2. The combination, with an organized stitch-forming mechanism, of acurved plate adapted to support the crown of a hat nearits head-opening,a suitable gage for guiding the reed in a sweat-band and retaining thesame in the proper relation to the hat while the sewing progresses, anda brim-guide, constructed and adapted to operate substantially asdescribed.

3. The combination, with an organized stitch-forming mechanism, of acurved plate adapted to support the crown of a hat near itshead-opening, a gage adapted to conduct a sweat-band to the sewingmechanism, and two rollers, oneof which is adjustably mounted on thegage, while the other is secured to a rock-shaft and subjected to theaction of a spring, constructed and adapted to operate substantially asdescribed.

4. The combination of the rock-shaftand the outer guide-roller carriedby the same, with the Presser-slide and mechanism connecting the samewith the rock-shaft, substantially as described, for the purposes setforth.

5. The combination, with a stitch-forming mechanism and a curvedwork-plate, of the upper and lower longitudinal gage plates, (J D, theformer having a groove, d, for guiding the reed of a sweat-band, and thelattera hp, f, for guiding the inner edge of asweat-band, and aspring-impelled roller arranged on the underside of the lowergage-plate, and adapted to bear against the outer edge of the sweatbandto maintain the inner edge thereof against the lip of the lower gage,substantially as and for the purposes described.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing I have hereunto set my hand andseal this 23d day of J nly, 1879.

'r. w. BRACHER. n 8.]

Witnesses:

W. HAUFF, CHAS. WAHLEns.

